RODS

Here is an explanation of salmon rods, how they work, how to best use them, and how to care for them. The type used in the ocean of BC for salmon, are mooching reels. Like a fly reel system, they work extremely well if used properly and provide great sport. After years of using them there is no way I would prefer any other system to fish for salmon.

SALMON RODS & REELS

Salmon rods, what are they? The most commonly used type of rod for ocean salmon fishing (downrigging), are mooching reels and rods. They are single action reels, much like a fly reel. This means that the line is either being reeled in with the handles or the line is unwinding with the handles. There is no (traditional) ‘drag system’. Many American bass fisherman are used to baitcasting and spinning reels, which we BC anglers refer to as “coffee grinders”. In those systems yes you can reel in and the fish will still be able to take line, depending on how strongly the drag system is set. For mooching reels, the kind we use for downrigging, if you are reeling in, the fish cannot take line.

Vice versa, if the fish is running, the handles on the reel will be spinning out. This is why salmon reels are often referred to as “knuckle busters”!

As far as rods go, any long, limber but strong salmon rod will do. Daiwa and Shimano are among a few names that make great salmon rods and reels.

How to Work Them

The key times when it is crucial to pay attention to the single action mooching reels is while playing a fish. This is covered under the section which explains how to properly play a salmon, but essentially the key is to always be keeping tension on the line. It is a matter of give and take with the fish. Steadily wind in when possible, but if not, put your hand underneath the reel as a brake because when a salmon runs it will run. All your hands can do during those times is either get bruised or break the fish off. (snap the line).

These reels are great for salmon fishing because you have a very direct control on the line while downrigging. The line will extend down with the downrigger when lowered, and once there, you can carefully reel in the slack so as to see any fish hits. The reels provide a very effective way of keeping the proper tension on the line.

Drag System

Although these mooching reels do not contain a traditional drag system, they do have one. Essentially what the drag system does is control how much force is required to pull out line. The reel is not a free wheeling reel, there is friction to make sure it doesn’t spin out of control. The drag system determines how much ‘pull’ is required. It ranges from a free spin to the point where you cannot pull the line out. Somewhere in between is right, you will be able to figure this out quite easily. Your hand should be able to pull it out and after that the reel should stop dead if nothing is pulling on it.

The way to adjust the drag is by the centre-pin adjustment dial. It is always located in the middle of the circle on the reel. Simply turn clockwise to tighten (righty-tighty) and counterclockwise to loosen, (lefty-loosey).

USE THE ROD

When fishing, always make sure you are using the rod for what it is there for, to take the force. The line is not there to take the pull, the rod is. Therefore always make sure your rod is 90 degrees from the direction which the fish is pulling from. As long as the salmon has tension against it it shouldn't get away. Use the rod to do this, to make sure that salmon has no room for slack. Keep that rod tip up!!!!

ROD HOLDERS

Most downriggers come with rod holders attached to them, how to place them is up to you, but a relatively upright and out to the side angle is best. This way, there is no way the rod will come out of the rodholder, and secondly during turns it keeps the lines out and away from the back of the boat and propeller.

LINE

As far as line goes, a 20-25lb test mainline should be sufficient. 25lb mainline for those big summer springs is ideal. I’m sure there are many guys who use 30lb or 15lb, and feel free to do so. Leaders are generally 25-40lb test, to counteract for wear and tear from fish and from the resistance provided from the flasher. But simple 25lb test monofilament, (recommend Maxima) is what you need.

SURFACE ROD

A third rod is often use to be thrown off the back for shits and giggles, and the odd fish. Place it right off the back in the middle. Just throw off a weighted spoon or a small weight with a spoon or lure behind it. This rod can be a spinning rod or such, as there is no downrigger involved. However only do this if it is practical. If there are fish in the top of the water column, why not.

SPARE RODS

It never hurts to have at least a spare rod. Years ago in a 12’ aluminum boat off Sooke, I had 1 downrigger on one side and the other had a rod in a makeshift rod holder with a weight. The rod holder was just a hole in the rear of the boat and not a proper one. It had worked for years so far but was obviously not designed to hold the rod other than against pull from the back of the boat. Man did I learn that one the hard way. We had a double header of large Wild Cohos. The first one took the rod in the makeshift rodholder, I set it, fish on. The second hit the downrigger, I set it, fish on. A mere 10 seconds later as I went back to attend the first rod, the fish had already pulled the rod out of the boat and into the water. Luckily I had a spare rod in the boat. Lesson also learned was to get a second rodholder (& downrigger). Point being, take spare everything. There’s nothing worse than hitting a school of Coho out in the Juan de Fuca straight, with constant action, miles offshore, and not having enough equipment out there! Spend the extra few bucks before or just take an old rod, anything, that could be used if needed!

None of us are millionaires here, but I simply take along a strong casting rod in my personal boat the “Salmon Machine”, just in case. I only have 2 mooching rods and don’t plan on losing them. However I have had to repair the reels at sea before and in the meantime sent the spinning rod down with a weight. In fact the second largest salmon of my life, a 35lber off Trap Shack, was caught with a spare rod and weight setup. Always, always, always go fishing prepared for the worst, and hope for the best.

AFTER USE

After saltwater use, make sure your rods get a good flushing of freshwater on them, reels especially.

SALMON RODS & REELS IN SUMMARY

The point being here is keep the tension on the line, play the fish with the reel properly, keep the rod up, be prepared and take care of the gear. Salmon gear can take a beating. I have fought and seen fought many seals with salmon gear. Anglers end up catching Halibut with them all the time. It works. It's made strong. But it isn’t cheap, though if cared for well, will land you lots of fish and keep for a long time.